Geko Plain Wood Three Legged Stool Standing at 23cm High, Brown, 30 x 30 x 23 cm

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Using a marking gauge I divide each face of the leg section into thirds and I continue these marks across the endgrain as well (photo 1) Securing a pipe clamp to my bench, I can hold the leg lengthways so I can work the piece with a handplane. Rotating the leg as I work and keeping an eye on my marks at the ends, the final circular shape of the leg emerges (photo 2). I tune up the final shape with a spokeshave. I want this stool to have a triangular shape with rounded corners at each apex. Using a tin can 115mm in diameter, I draw a circle at the top of the square where the centre line dissects and another at the left hand bottom corner 50mm from the bottom edge (fig.1). With these general shapes in place I can sketch out the edge of the seat along one half of the square. When designing a symmetrical object I generally work on one side at a time, as once one side is resolved I can copy it and transfer to complete the overall design. Taking a pencil I sketch the edge with broad strokes using the setout as I guide. I use the sander like a rubber to remove marks that don’t work.

Using a forstner bit I bored a 35mm diameter hole in some scrap to act as a fitting template. Holding each leg in the bench vice, I use the spokeshave to trim one end of the leg down so it almost fits the hole (photo 3). Leave a bit of extra material for the final fit and glue. I finish all three legs to this point and set aside. The next step is to drill holes in the seat. Centering a leg 50mm in from the underside edge at the corner apex, I lean the leg out so it finishes about 50mm out from the seat edge. I am happy with this angle so I take a measurement using a bevel gauge (photo 1). Storage & organisation Furniture Textiles Kitchenware & tableware Kitchens Lighting Decoration Rugs, mats & flooring Beds & mattresses Baby & children Smart home Bathroom products Laundry & cleaning Plants & plant pots Home electronics Home improvement Outdoor living Food & beverages Christmas Shop Shop by roomWhen making any object for the first time it’s a good idea to draw the piece and create a cutting list. Upfront planning allows you resolve the design, select suitable construction techniques, make templates if necessary and determine the material requirements. I start by setting out a plan view of the seat on a sheet of 3mm medium density fibreboard (MDF). First I draw a square on the MDF whose breadth represents the overall width of the seat and whose height is the depth of the seat. I add a centre line from top to bottom which divides the square into two halves, see fig.1. This square is the general parameters of your seat design; draw whatever shape you want within it keeping in mind where the legs will be positioned.

Each of the corresponding edges of the wood for the seat must be prepared so they may be successfully glued together. This process is called ‘jointing’ and is completed using either a handplane or a jointing machine. A jointed edge is cut at a perfect 90° angle to the face and is completely straight along its length. When joining longer boards it is advisable to leave a small gap along the mid section of the edge to compensate for movement, however in this project that is not necessary. As a professional I prepare the edges using a jointer as it is fast and accurate.

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Turning the piece over, I repeat the process to the seat and edges—remember it is critical to remove all the excess oil. Leave the job for 12 hours to dry then sand all over with 240 grit paper, re-oil and rub down. Repeat this process up to five times moving up through the grades of sandpaper until you are satisfied with the finish, applying oil with superfine steel wool speeds up the process. I can now draw an octagon on each end—within that will be the circular shape of the finished leg. I ensure the marking out results in a circle slightly larger than the final diameter of 35mm. I need extra material to trim away when fitting the leg into the seat. The marking lines are my guides as I cut away timber to reveal the final shape. I remove the bulk of material using the tablesaw set at 45°—running each piece through removes the four corners of the section and reveals the octagon.