Ikoyi: A Journey Through Bold Heat with Recipes

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Against each of the Phaidon-published tome's 40 or so recipes are mini essays that range from 300 to over 1,000 words. Allow them to smoke and burn, but make sure they don’t overcook on the inside, and turn them to ensure they are all evenly blistered. Named after a district in the Nigerian capital Lagos, Ikoyi was initially positioned as a West African-inspired restaurant​​ but Chan’s influences have become broader with the now two Michelin-starred restaurant currently billed as offering ‘spice-based cuisine’ (there is still a focus on ingredients from that bit of the world and a number of Ikoyi’s key dishes are takes on West African staples, not least its fried plantain and Jollof rice).

There’s very artistic photography, but the recipes aren’t that clear and are presented in a way that’s almost useless to a reader other than being some kind of aesthetic or poetic inspiration around cookery. But if I was to create a half-Chinese, half-Canadian jollof, I knew it would have to stand up in terms of flavor. The book includes narratives throughout illustrating Ikoyi’s inspiration and inception, as influenced by Chan’s experiences living, cooking, and traveling in Hong Kong, Canada, Sub-Saharan Africa, and Europe. Partnered with Nigerian-born Iré Hassan-Odukale, who handles front-of-the house, chef Jeremy Chan draws on a wide range of culinary influences even as he keeps an eye on the restaurant’s African inspirations.Ikoyi, named as one of the World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2022, is one of the most original, flavor-driven restaurants of its time. Crispy, chewy, creamy, crunchy, smoky, spicy, sweet, salty, it’s the kind of food you want to eat when you’re hungover or sitting in front of the TV with a beer. The gorgeous, vibrantly-hued new book contains more than 80 recipes, exactly as they’re written in the restaurant’s kitchen, including his decadent take on the classic jollof rice (recipe below).

Thankfully, Phaidon Press is emerging from their earlier offerings that were overloaded, country-specific recipe reliquaries; whereas now, Phaidon Press is focusing the knowledge and passion of a chef’s personal journey and craft. While chefs might not be able to get their hands on some of Chan’s ingredients they will appreciate his precise instructions and the fact that the recipes are presented are taken directly from Ikoyi’s own recipe folder.Add them to the pot with the reduced tomatoes, along with all the spices and the crayfish powder, Tabasco, tamari, fish sauce, Worcestershire sauce, black garlic, sugar, and smoked salt. Today Jeremy is at the forefront of the gastronomic landscape, blending his dishes with spice, flavor, and his personal experiences. But then my mum is Canadian, and her background is more humble: When I’m with her family, we eat tuna sandwiches, hot dogs, and mac and cheese. With two Michelin stars, Ikoyi is a London restaurant known for building its menu on the flavors of sub-Saharan West Africa.