Lilo Stitch Eyeglass Case, Portable Travel Zipper Sunglasses Case Glasses Bag Guard Set

Product Information

You’re nearly there. It just remains to neatly close the opening on the lining seam with your machine or hand stitch it closed using a ladder stitching or a slip stitching STEP 11: Finish the sunglasses case Stitch all the way around the seams you have pinned leaving a 1 ½ to 2-inch gap midway down the long seam for the lining as this is where you will push the fabric through to turn it. Start centrally-ish on your batting, lay a piece of one of your favorite fabrics right sides facing you, place a second piece of fabric, which is the same length, on the top, the wrong side facing you. Stitch through the three layers of fabricwith a 1/4″ seam allowance and straight stitch, thus attaching the fabric to the batting. Open out your seam and press. It really is worth taking the extra few seconds to press as you go along as it makes such a difference to the finish.

Using the printed pattern, cut these pieces from fabric (just mark the darts, don't cut out the darts): I wanted my eyeglasses pouch to be generously sized, so it will fit any size eyeglasses and especially, will be large enough for ANY size sunglasses. And I wanted it to have a decently stable outer layer for protection. And I wanted it not flat. Also, it had to be pretty! What do you say, have I succeeded? To make it easier, I first trace the pattern piece on the foam, then flip it and trace the other half - see image #1 above. Cut out using scissors. Cut out the darts too.

Cut the pattern pieces for the outer casing, the lining and the fusible interfacing – you’ll need one of each. As you’ll see on the eyeglasses case pattern piece one side is side is angled slightly. So you’ll need to cut the lining mirrored. Trim and notch the rounded edge for easier turning, being careful to not snip into the stitching lines. NOTE: do not trim the (unfinished) straight edge. First of all, let’s start by working out the finished measurements of your sunglasses case. Your finished case needs to be long enough and wide enough for your glasses. Now you are going to take that flat seam and stitch a neat line on the lining side next to the original line you stitch. This is called under-stitching and will prevent fraying, hold the seam in place, also giving the edge a neat finish when turned. Now's the perfect time to add that magnetic snap. If you're new to magnetic snaps, you'll be delighted when you see how easy these are! See my easy tutorial for how to add magnetic snaps. Magnetic Snap Placement

Bring the FRONT pieces together by placing the front pieces with right sides together and sewing along the top (slightly curved) edge. Like before, use a ¼" seam allowance. If this is a concern you can solve it by sewing a tiny piece of Velcro to the inside of the top of the sunglasses case on either side. An alternative solution is to sew a button, centrally place, on the outside of the front of the case – that’s the bit with the angled side, near the top. Take a piece of colored twine or braid and make a loop that you place inside the seam so that when you sew the top piece together it will turn outwards when you turn the fabric. Bring the loop down to hook over the button. LINING: For the lining try to choose a thin polar fleece, or fabric with a brushed finish. Even a soft cotton will work. This just give some padding to protect the lenses. Make sure the colors for the outer and lining work well together.Open out the fabric so you have two long rectangles, and place them on top of each other so the right sides face each other (like you do if you are making a zipper flat bottom bag). Fold the eyeglass case lengthwise. You now have an inside out piece just under 16 inches long – with the side on the left having the lining and side on the right the outer fabric. Pin the edges together all around, making sure they line up neatly. Less than a fat quarter of fabric (less than 50 x 55 cm) - I used 3 different prints from the Lucy June collection