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Whether you fix it at home or at the roadside, patching your own inner tubes using a puncture repair kit is the environmentally and budget-conscious thing to do.
Use the puncture kit’s sandpaper or metal scuffer to do this. The area you roughen should be bigger than the patch you’re applying it to. Whilst this will rub out the cross you’ve just drawn, you’ll still be able to see the outer edges. Pump up the inner tube and find where the air is leaking, line the inner tube to where it was in the tyre and take a look/light feel of the area around the tyre for any sharp foreign bodies. On one hole we just slapped on a patch to see how it fared, on the other two we prepared as per the instructions, then headed out on the road to see what happened… The best puncture repair kits at a glance One case where a larger, oval patch might be better is a "snakebite" puncture, caused by the tire bottoming out on the wheel rim. You'll see two parallel cuts a few millimetres apart. Here, a slightly larger patch should work better and cover both holes with a single patch. Do I need to abrade the inner tube before fitting a patch?Sealant spray is sealant-plus-compressed-air in a can; you use it to re-inflate and fix untreated tyres.
The patches’ slightly thinner and more flexible construction also means they wrap around the tube well. In our experience, patches which need to be glued on give a more durable repair than glueless patches. But for on-the-road repairs, it means more to take with you, while the rubber solution itself is emblazoned with Harmful notices in big letters. It probably won't hurt you much the amount most cyclists will be using it, but it's something to bear in mind. Just how do you go about testing a patch kit? Rather than wait for the inevitable, we assaulted an inner tube with a pointy implement, then slit it with a knife. That left two puncture wounds plus a centimetre long slash, which we felt represented the most common leaks – a hole brought about by broken glass or a thorn and the pinch puncture, typically caused by a pothole. The main choice with the best puncture repair kits is whether to go for the traditional patches that need a separate tube of rubber solution or the newer glueless patches.You shouldn't need a large patch either, provided you get a good seal, although glueless patches tend to be less airtight than glued ones, so some extra material around the point of piercing may be helpful. A larger patch will also help if you don't aim well and the actual hole is off-centre from the patch. If you’re commuting without a spare inner tube, bring some sandpaper, rubber solution, and puncture tape or foil with you. If you get a puncture, simply follow the same steps as above, except when you take out the burst inner tube, find the source of the puncture. Whilst this is fine if you’re at home, or have your puncture kit with you, it’s not ideal if you’re mid-commute. However, we’ll now go through the five steps you can take to fixing a puncture on a commute. How to Fix a Bike Puncture While On the Road
To fix a puncture, you should always have a few spares to hand. You need the following parts to make your morning commute puncture-proof: Once you’ve found the hole, mark it with a big cross using a ballpoint pen. Make sure the cross is centred on the hole, and bigger than the patch you’re about to apply.
\n\t\t\tHalfords Self Seal Patch Kit
Here’s a video tutorial from British Cycling that will further help you understand the process. Pay attention and try and commit this to memory. If you can get this drilled into your brain, a puncture on your commute should hopefully only cause a few minutes of delay. Some punctures are instant and unavoidable. A thorn or shard of glass impales or slashes the tyre and it deflates immediately. Others are gradual. A crumb of glass or sharp grit becomes embedded in the tyre and gets slowly forced through as you ride, causing a puncture hours or days later. Disaster averted, you now know that when you have flat tyre, it can be fixed in minutes and you can get on with your ride. Vulcanizing patches are superior. The system of carrying a spare tube and a vulcanizing patch kit, using the patch kit only if you get multiple flats in the same ride (should be a very rare occurrence), and patching your punctured tube when you get home so it can become your spare is popular and time-honored because it works and is cheap. You almost never actually wind up using the vulcanizing kit on the side of the road, and when you do it's no big deal because you've developed good technique. Vulcanizing patches make the tube as reliable as new, so it's fine to leave the tube in there and forget about it. Coming from Wiggle’s own range of tools, this Lifeline eight-piece set is a cyclist’s staple. Formed of six patches, four tapered-edge 20mm versions along with two 30×20mm rectangles, it’s a vulcanising set that also includes glue and sandpaper.
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