Laser 3799 Spline Bit Set M14 2pc

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Most other large bolts are 200Nm+180° And should be replaced, as should the 90Nm+90° bolts for the rear carrier. It is all in the manual ...RTFM I think I am getting myself mixed up, you are correct there is no need to remove it, I was remembering when I had to change something else which required it's full removal! This is correct. One of the places that does not use stretch bolts is the front caliper carrier. These can be re-used if clean and undamaged. Also with the rears am I correct in thinking I need a special tool to remove one bolt? M14 spline bit is what I vaguely recall needing?!

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It's a bloody nightmare and I needed a special spline drive m14. You dont have any room to get a long enough bar in. Its probably much easier in a garage up on a proper lift. then the ground wouldn't get in the way and you could use a longer bar. There is nothing wrong with people maintaining their cars, but these cars have modern materials, processes and sometimes need particular tools.It's almost easier to cut the heads off the bolts with a Dremel, you'll go through a few blades but you should really be replacing the bolts anyway so it's no loss on bolts and it's easy to do, takes about 10-15mins to cut a head off. Hi Aj77, I had done much research on-line and found that most mechanics report that they always reuse these bolts. If you have access to an air tool, these carrier bolts do come out easilly. I'm pleased that I managed it with limited facilities and I did clean the threads and reused the bolts with a little blue Loctite on the threads and tightened them using a torque wrench. This was a simple but prolonged job which took me a week of daily spraying K2 Vulcan penetrating oil, My biggest worry was if the splines stripped, what do I do then, so I will keep your method in mind for when I do my own Octavia in the summer. The reason they are tight is they are stretch bolts. VW group use them on most of their suspension and brake components. Absolutely spot on. Don't waste your money on snap on. .when you can get these for a fraction of the price

Rear brake caliper disassembly FL MK2 - Skoda Octavia Mk II

BRISKODA is owned and operated by Summit 360 Ltd, registered in England & Wales, company number 05710517. Thank you, I thought it was a M14! I'll buy one tonight, they will have to come off to get at the seals properly! Having read what the others have said it would seem these ones wind out!

Applications: ball joints on Volkswagen LT, Transporter, Touran and rear caliper bolt on Passat and Audi A3. Thank you to everyone else also, this has given me far more confidence to do the work and what tools are needed! Halfords Advanced hand tools come with a Lifetime Guarantee. Should a Halfords Advanced hand tool fail while being used for the purpose and in the manner for which it was designed, it will be inspected and replaced. The new seals are an absolute pain to put in, the piston will need to be cleaned also but as mentioned above they will be scored or even pitted. Will get you by a few thousand but not a permanent solution. Buy new when can. I know this is an old thread, but the post by CWARD is of interest to me. I'm currently restoring an old caliper off my Octy PD 1.9Tdi Estate and I cannot figure out how to remove the handbrake spindle. Everything else is off but I need to get the spindle out as it's damaged from being seized. Is it possible to get this spindle out, or is it new caliper time?

RS PRO XZN M14 Spline Bit Socket, 1/2 in Drive, 100 mm

size disc calipers are as follows..& I think the 340mm are the same as the same base caliper casting:- With mating/sliding parts lightly lubricated with fresh brake fluid, insert the fluid seal in the caliper, slide the dust seal over the piston, offer the piston/seal to the caliper and work the piston around like stirring a bowl to help the dust seal pop into place. On my last service the mechanic noted that the rubber gasket around the piston on both rear callipers was worn and letting dirt in. I’ve bought 2 rebuild kits for the rears however I was just looking for clarification on how the pistons come out. I know on the fronts I can use compressed air to blow them out as I have done that before, however with the rears I’m unsure if they need winding out or blowing out… or some total other method. Hope this makes sense. I see that Irwin do some removers for this. Anyone used them with success pls,or know any other way. I used wd40 before trying but it's an absolute ****

Edit. This is all from memory but it should cover it all. Don’t forget to clean up the pad carrier and lightly grease the slider pins. Apologies, I forgot to mention that there is an internal circlip holding the handbrake mechanism in the calliper, remove it and it should come apart easily... Alzheimer's! All content is viewed and used at your own risk. We do not warrant the accuracy or reliability of any of the information. There will be all the usual people that say they have re-used them with no issue etc etc but that is what it says quite clearly in the factory manual. Personally I will occasionally use some of the less critical bolts again, only if I know for certain they were stretched no more than once previously. Bigger ones or anything on my brakes I replace each time. Although the mechanic said it was letting dirt in I can't see any full splits in it, however that is only visual inspection and I am aware that it could be split and I'm not just seeing it. If there is damage when I take them apart I'll replace them.

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Once seal and piston are fitted and ready to be rewound fully into the caliper, either use a proper tool or improvise with wide pipe grips to grip the very end of the piston and rotate bit by bit to screw it in. An arc will be in the 2000C range, so you only need a couple of seconds to get a bolt red hot. A blowtorch at around 700C will take ages to do the same. All the while heat is escaping to do naughty things elsewhere. What's it like doing the rear discs on a mk3? On the mk2 it was a bloody nightmare as there was hardly any access to get at the caliper bolts.I tried to remove the rear caliper carriers on my vrs. I had a large torque wrench with a slight extension on to reach m14 spline bolt. Trouble is when I used full force it shredded the spline bolt. Depending on the depth/amount of any corrosion you may be able to clean it up with some very fine sandpaper. Obviously this will only be a temporary repair but it will last a while - monitor for fluid loss.