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you will notice in the first picture by -AK- you can see the spark plug throat, that is the electrode and ceramic insulator and then space between the threaded material and the electrode/ceramic insulator. How far up inside the spark plug does that space go? The fakes terminal cap shape is pretty accurate, however cast mold lines are visible, unlike the genuine plug.
NGK CR9EIX (3521) - Iridium IX Spark Plug - Opie Oils NGK CR9EIX (3521) - Iridium IX Spark Plug - Opie Oils
The image of the spark plugs above shows four common conditions that you’ll find your spark plugs in. From left to right the plugs are Normal, Rich, Lean and Very Lean. Full descriptions below. however, if the plug is too hot, the material of the electrode or the ground tab will soften, distort, or even oxidize. Maybe it's time for a little spark plug 101 as it was explained to me by a guy who didn't spout any BS. It gets better, the installation guides on the rear of the inner boxes are for an M14 (14mm) diameter threaded spark plug, not M10 (10mm) that CR9EIX features!
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A spark plug electrode is litterally at the absolute hottest part of the engine. It is where combustion starts, when compression is the highest it's going to be, and where a lightening bolt (that is a plasma discharge) is purposfully formed. Torque the spark plug up to your manufacturer’s recommended settings. If you don’t have a torque wrench, then get the plug hand tight and then add a ½ turn for a plug with a gasket, and more like a ¼ turn for a tapered spark plug. Over-tightening can snap the spark plug – a nightmare. You’ll need this to help you find the location of your spark plugs and how to access them. This may sound simple but often the manual offers up some time-saving tips for your particular model. And so, if your plugs are working, they reach the self cleaning temp, your wires are not leaking, your plug caps are properly connected and intact... you are good to go.
CR9EIX/3521 NGK - Spark Plug Of Ignition IN Iridium, 3 NGK CR9EIX/3521 NGK - Spark Plug Of Ignition IN Iridium, 3
Designed specifically for the performance enthusiast Iridium IX offers extreme ignitability, improved throttle response and superior anti fouling. NGK is the brand leader in the UK spark plug market and are the world's biggest supplier to many major car manufacturers. Each and every one of their products are designed to meet the most rigorous standards and are the professionals' choice because of their quality and technical excellence. Their plugs can be found in use by teams in F1, WRC and MotoGP. Put simply, NGK genuine spark plugs are the workhorse at the heart of smooth-running engines around the world. PLEASE NOTE – This article was written a few years ago so not all information provided may be accurate. For example, on some part numbers, NGK now uses Laser Etching instead of stamping, so the font information may not be accurate. Another Sparking Discovery The fakes terminal caps were finger tight, whereas the genuine caps couldn’t be undone by hand and needed pliers. If the plug is brown or light grey your can assume your engine is in good condition and the spark plug is functioning well. Even when a plug is in good condition small deposits will accumulate. This is normal. RichSpark plugs are often called "hot" or cool or anything inbetween... This has NOTHING to do with how hot the fuel burns. It has to do with how hot the spark plug gets.
CR9EIX NGK Iridium Spark Plug | FREE UK DELIVERY | Flexible
As stated above, the illustrations on the rear show installation procedures for an M14 threaded spark plug. Unfortunately for Mr Counterfeit, CR9EIX spark plugs have an M10 sized thread! This fatal error has already fulfilled our suspicions that they’re indeed fake, and we haven’t even seen the plugs yet!
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A spark plug fouls with every single power stroke of the engine, as the fuel burns a deposit of soot forms on the electrode. Form enough deposit, the gap resistance changes and the plug either is resisted out or shorted out, neither of which will fire the cylinder. Fakes are also known to not feature any copper core which means they retain heat and can eventually meltdown, it’s likely to be the same with these fakes. If you’re going to be doing any sort of work on the bike, treat yourself to a decent set of tools. Most of mine are from the Halfords Advanced range (formerly called Professional). This is simply one mistake NGK would never make. If you think of how many of these are sold worldwide, you can see where the problem’s heading. The number of damage reports of snapped CR9EIX plugs and damaged engine heads would soar if worldwide customers tightened down M10 spark plugs to M14 specifications. A colossal recall would then pursue as M14 plugs are actually torqued down around twice as much as M10 ones! It’s important to use a torque wrench because under-tightening can cause overheating due to poor heat dissipation and as mentioned, overtightening will cause damage.
NGK Spark Plug Upgrade Chart - NGK Partfinder
This is why you can't 1. hurt your engine with the wrong plugs... you can only hurt your plugs. and 2. Plug slection has no affect on engine performance or horse power... If your plug is fireing during every power stroke... that's the best it can do. Fatter spark, bigger spark, super jiggy spark Doesn't matter... if the fuel/air mix is being ignited every time... that's as good as it gets. Mind you, there are 1000 things that can mess with "fireing every power stroke" but you won't get more power using a "hotter" plug. The metal in a spark plug has a single purpose: to channel the electrical energy through the spark plug. Iridium is far harder than copper and this allows the spark plug manufacturers to create a plug with a sharper ‘tip’ which better focuses the spark around the centre electrode without compromising its service life. A typical copper spark plug will last around 20,000 miles and most get changed at a major service (usually around 16,000 miles) but an iridium spark plug will be good for around 50,000 miles and you do see people running them to 100,000 miles with no issues.If you’ve not changed your plugs before, give yourself a couple of hours to complete the task. Here are the essentials you need for smooth re-plugging: so the uber smart engineers calculate that heat transfer path, the average temp for the engine at full throttle and full load, and at idle... proposed engine coolent temp limits and toss in 20% safety margin and then design a plug that will hold self cleaning temps over the widest range of engine RPM, ambient temp, etc. with out ever reaching "burn out" temp and volia' you have a plug for your specific engine.
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